Louis Gabriel Nouchi is preparing his next menswear show in the aisles of the Made in France Première Vision show, Tile of the Temple in Paris. The young designer finds his suppliers on Thursday, March 31, but this year remains special. “There is a real evolutionhe explains. It’s even much more complicated than during the Covid crisis.” Clothing is not immune to soaring prices: +3.2% in 2021 according to INSEE and perhaps an additional 5 to 15% this year if we are to believe the professionals.
>> Inflation increases further in March in France and reaches 4.5% over one year, according to INSEE
In question, the prices of raw materials which climb and change every day. “A fabric bought a month ago for 19.5 euros per meter has gone to 25 euros per metercontinues Louis Gabriel Nouchi.
“It’s the first time that manufacturers say they can’t guarantee the prices! We select but we don’t know how much it will cost us in three months.”Louis Gabriel Nouchi, creator
Absolutely all costs are on the rise, according to Alexandra Brousseaud, general manager of Maison Brousseaud, which has been making socks for more than 80 years. “If we take the example of cotton, we had a 21% increase in 2021, then an additional 28% on January 1, 2022, lists this responsible.
The surge in oil and raw material prices has a direct impact on the textile market. “For polyamide, we are in the process of passing even higher caps because these are materials derived from petroleum, confirms Alexandra Brousseaud. With the crisis in Ukraine, the cost of oil is exploding. We also have dyes that come from Eastern countries. The end customer is also largely impacted, it’s mechanical.”
Professionals also fear a disruption of supply. “We make jackets, parkas, down jackets. We use a lot of zips and metalwork, underlines for her part Sophie Pineau at the head of the clothing manufacturer Getex. Currently, we have a very strong extension of delays on the delivery of zips. Previously, it was around six weeks, today it’s more like 16 to 20 weeks. This means that we risk having 15 to 20 girls, depending on the size of the chains, at a standstill, without work. There is a risk of partial unemployment. We’re going to have to anticipate a lot.”
These crises have at least one virtue, according to Sylvie Chailloux, president of the French Union of Fashion and Clothing Industries (UFIMH): “The pandemic has had a big impact on us. We realized our lack of industrial sovereignty. So it’s true that sourcers [spécialistes] took fright and are clearly repatriating to Europe and the Mediterranean basin products that were made much further afield.”
The president of the French Union of Fashion and Clothing Industries believes that “vsach household devoted less and less of its budget to the purchase of clothing. There, we will find ourselves in an inverse mechanism. The consumer must also agree to pay this additional price. And the waltz of labels will begin with the arrival of the summer collection.