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12 Bordeaux wines, made by winemakers, to drink now

Chateau Massereau Vin de France Cuvée Tradition 2018, 13.5%, $27

Château Massereau produces both sweet wines and dry reds like this. This cuvée is generally composed of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, the rest being divided between Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Massereau was once labeled Bordeaux Supérieur, but withdrew its wines from the appellation after running into stilted bureaucracy. It now bottles dry wines in Vin de France. Either way, it’s sharp, focused, flavorful and refreshing, structured but not tannic, with a slight herbaceous edge. (Camille Rivière/Fruit of the vines)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Chateau Auney l’Hermitage Graves Blanc Cuvée Cana 2018, 13 percent, $30

The virtues of dry white Bordeaux are a hard sell, perhaps because good examples from the best estates, Pessac-Léognan and Graves, are expensive and hard to find. I like white Bordeaux and I like the succulence of the Sémillon grape variety. (Cuvée Cana is 50% Sémillon, 35% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Sauvignon Gris and 5% Muscadelle, an unusual blend in a region where Sémillon and other grape varieties have lost ground to Sauvignon. blanc.) Like Chenin Blanc, Sémillon has a floral scent, honeyed flavor, mineral flavor, and luscious texture that makes me roll in my mouth because it tastes so good. Auney l’Hermitage conducts its vineyard in organic farming on gravelly and clay soils. (Rosenthal wine merchant, New York)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

White House Montagne-St.-Émilion 2018, 14.5%, $42

The DEspagne family operates its Montagne-St.-Émilion vineyard biodynamically and produces its wines with a minimum of artifice. Depending on the vintage, this wine may contain 20 to 50% Cabernet Franc, the rest Merlot. The 2018 is dense and concentrated, with complex flavors of dark fruit, licorice and spice. It is structured and should age for years. (Mass Selection)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Clos du Jaugueyron Haut-Médoc 2017, 12.5%, $45

Le Clos du Jaugueyron is one of my favorite small Bordeaux estates. Its owner, Michel Théron, operates around 7 hectares biodynamically, and his wines are deliciously pure. Haut-Médoc is made from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot. It is lightly tannic, with floral and stony flavors, and is a pleasure to drink. Jaugueyron also makes a superb Margaux. (Mass Selection)


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